Bubble bucket build - pt 4. Assembly

Now that we have the parts, modified the lid and drilled the holes we can assemble the bucket. The diagram below shows how to assemble the drain fitting and lower level indicator.  Basically you will put a o-ring on the threaded pvc then put the threaded pvc through the bucket.  Follow it with another o-ring and then the outside piece.



In this picture you can see the assembled outside of the bucket.  The 3/8 ID clear hose is inserted into the fitting and then secured with a tie-wrap at the top.  If I had this to do over I would move the tie-wrap holes down about a 1/2 inch.



I always silicon around the outside of the pvc.  If you have never had a aquarium spring a leak trust me it is not fun to clean up.  Do yourself a favor and go the extra mile.  On the inside I put silicon on the bottom of my airstone.  The one I selected has a plastic bottom and I am not sure I would silicon a regular one.  The silicon will keep it from moving around in the bucket.  Now it will just sit a dry for a day or two then onto part 5 testing and setup.

Bubble bucket build - pt 3. Drill the bucket

So far we have assembled the components and modified the lid.  Today we will drill holes in the bucket.  First look at the diagram I have posted below.  From left to right I have a hole for a drain, holes for the level indicator and then a hole for the air line.  Don't worry you don't have to make these precise or break out a protractor.  Just use good old 'eyeball engineering'.



The drain hole is optional.  I use it due to the fact I have my setup on a desk and draining the bucket makes it easier for me to handle.  Water weighs eight pounds a gallon.  Both the drain hole and level indicator use the same size hole.  Measure your PVC fitting and choose an appropriate drill bit.  For drill bits use either a regular twist drill, hole saw or step drill.  A forstner bit or a spade bit will grab and potentially crack the bucket.  If you don't have a drill the right size a dremel and x-acto knife will work.  Mark your hole so the fitting sits as close to the bottom of the bucket and cut the holes.



The level indicator side will need two small holes toward the top of the bucket.  These holes hold a tie wrap that secures the top of the level indicator.  These holes will need to be about 5/8" apart.  Hole size should just be big enough to pass the tie wrap through.  The final hole is for the air hose it just needs to be big enough for the hose to go through.  Needs to be towards the top above the water line.  See picture below all holes were marked with black marker.



Next time we put it all together.

Bubble bucket build - pt 2. The Lid

The first part of construction will be the lid.  Take your 5" net pot and put it as close to center as you can on the lid.  Take your marker and trace the outline of the lip.  This will not be your cut mark.  If you cut it here the net pot will drop into the bucket.  Go in about 3/16"  inside the first circle and draw another line.  This will be the cut mark.



At this point it is time to cut the circle out.  I used a dremel tool with a grout cutting bit.  The bit I used is cause I had it.  Use what you have.  Here is the end result with the hole cut and then with the pot in the lid.



To make the bucket lid come off easier make several cuts around the lid.  This will make it so that you can remove the lid without great difficulty.  If you look hard above at the rim of the lid you can see the cuts.  Next will be drilling the holes in the bucket.

Bubble bucket build - pt 1. Assemble the components

While I am waiting for another set of seeds to sprout in rockwool and some power supplies on order I will show you how to build your own.    In part one we will assemble the components.   Here is what you need:




Parts:

• Bucket with lid.  Three to Five gallon.
• 5" net pot from hydroponics store.
• 2 pvc half inch slip to half inch threaded connectors
• 1 pvc half inch threaded ball valve.
• 1 female 1/2 inch thread to 3/8" barb.
• 1 male 1/2 inch thread to 3/8" barb.
• 12-18 inches of 3/8 ID clear hose.
• 4 #15 o-rings.
• aquarium airline tubing.
• aquarium bubbler.
• 1 tie wrap
• air pump

Tools:

• Drill and bits.
• saw or dremel tool.
• Silicon caulk meant for constant water exposure.
• Marker.

Things to consider.  One pick a bucket and lid that will not allow light to shine through.  The orange Home Depot bucket is good but light will go through.  The silver Lowes bucket will not.  Black is ideal but hard to find unless you visit your local hydroponics store.   I am using a graduated bucket for experimental purposes only.  Some people on the net use aluminum tape to block light.  Some also use duct tape but duct tape lets through light.  I use regular clear aquarium air hose and many people do not cause of the possibility of light getting into the bucket.  Black drip irrigation line would be an acceptable alternative.  The same goes for the 3/8 ID clear hose.  They do make a green tinted transparent hose.

The burn in was successful

The LED array ran for 72+ hours without interruption.  The blue LEDs performed as they should.  They did not burn out as did the ones on the protoboard built array.  I e-mailed SuperBrightLEDs.com and they are sending a replacement LED for the one that was green instead of blue.  Excellent customer service and prompt response to my e-mail.   This weekend I will be restarting my bubble bucket with new plant.  In the mean time I may make a second bubble bucket as I have 2 arrays now.

Finally new 5x5 LED array assembled

This is a thing of beauty.   Finally after getting some time of work I have had time to solder together this pcb.  This one is using the new blue LEDs from SuperBrightLEDS. 



The first light test and sigh...  One of the red leds is bad and they put a green led in with my blues.  Guess this is why the desoldering gun is handy.



After everything is fixed here is the end result.  A nice looking led array if I say so myself.  I made two of these and still have yet to light up the second one.  Next I will be running these 72 hour strait to burn them in and to make sure the leds are not going to burn out prematurely.